Diy damp proofing16 июня, 2020
Please contact the webmaster with any queries. Damp proofing describes the control methods used to prevent rising damp in walls of buildings. Rising damp is a form of dampness caused by the movement of ground water through a permeable masonry wall having no effective damp proof course by which diy damp proofing stop damp from rising. The water rises through the pores in the masonry via a process called capillarity. Capillarity is an electrochemical action which attracts water molecules to mineral surfaces, enabling water to move vertically through pores of a certain size despite the counteractive force of gravity. The same process is responsible for the movement of moisture from tree roots to tree tops via intricately stacked hollow cells. Fortunately the pores in masonry are not as fine as those in trees and rising damp in walls rarely ascends more than about one metre in height. Rising damp only becomes a problem if it affects vulnerable materials or finishes that are in contact with the damp wall.
For example if it affects timbers such as joists, skirting boards or the bottom of door frames such as to provide wood rotting potential or if it causes wall plaster or wall coverings to deteriorate or become stained. Damp proofing products and techniques are designed. See more DIY repair video clips at www. Effective professional or DIY damp proofing requires a chemical damp proof course injection in accordance with BS6576:2005. The remedial damp proof course should be sited along the base of a wall at a level that is at least 150mm above external ground level and internally beneath ground floor joists, or close to the floor if solid.
Suitable chemical damp proofing cream treatments are tested and approved in the UK for injection into the mortar bed course. The mortar presents the only continuous passage ascending up a wall through which water is able to rise. Therefore a mortar bed joint is the only layer that can function as a damp proofing layer. Contrary to common belief a silicone damp proof course does not form an impervious physical barrier. Chemical damp proofing is an effective method of lining the pores along a stretch of masonry wall with a silicone resin water repellent. For the purists, silicone rising damp treatments work by neutralising the charge attraction of the masonry pores to water molecules.
An essential requirement of BS6576: 1985 Code of practice for installation of chemical damp proof courses is to replace wall plaster that has been contaminated by the ground salts deposited by rising damp. Best practice, though not always the most convenient, is to leave the plaster above the new damp proof course on the wall for several months following the damp proofing injection. Given the pore-lining characteristics of chemical damp proofing treatments, it goes without saying that they are only suitable for use as a damp proof course where mortar joints are continuous throughout the depth of the wall. For thick or random stone walls with a rubble fill, consider the use of an active electro osmotic damp proofing system. The 21st century has brought us modern damp proof cream technology. Early DPC creams were made using thickening agents to stiffen the cream and prevent it running out of the host drill hole. Tests indicate these early creams work well in dry walls that are subsequently subjected to wet conditions. There is no no need to call a self proclaimed specialist, you can buy professional DPC cream online in a specialilist DPC injection kit or in damp course builder packs or in easy to use DIY damp proofing kits, saving hundreds of pounds in the process.
Download Free step by step user guide from www. The building regulations therefore have a number of stipulations that must be fulfilled whenever a new building is being erected, or repairs or modifications are being made to an existing property. The following is concerned primarily with the measures that should be undertaken to protect the building from the effects of rising and penetrating damp. Widespread use of damp-proofing methods did not begin until the 1950s, so it is entirely possible that older properties are not protected at all. Click on product description below to purchase the item from screwfix. 24 hours — hover over the picture for a full description.
Being liquid, a chemical damp-proof course is a far more practical and less invasive solution than inserting a solid DPC. This involves injecting a silicone-based liquid into the wall at the suitable height to create a water-repelling layer. However, the effectiveness of a liquid damp-proof course can vary since it does not pass through the wall evenly, and can create continuous holes through which moisture can still pass. In addition, the solvents in the liquid which enable the chemical to dry off quickly do not mix with water well, and can therefore fail to pass through the very wettest parts of the wall. Modern technology does provide us with an alternative, in the form of a cream chemical damp-proof course, which is water-miscible and slow-curing to ensure that the DPC passes through as much of the wall as possible. Note that a liquid damp-proof course will not work in walls constructed of breeze block, as these are not porous and do not permit the liquid to flow through them at all. Cavity walls can be drilled and treated from one side, or either leaf can be dealt with separately. Inject the chemical from the base of the hole outwards.
Once the chemical has dried out, holes can be re-pointed with mortar. A traditional DPC is made of a layer of solid, waterproof material such as bituminous felt, copper sheet or polythene. Solid DPCs are considered to be the most reliable method of resisting groundwater ingress, but they are difficult to add to a wall after it has been built since grinding out the mortar coarse can weaken the wall and risks cutting through pipes and wiring. Although a simple and inexpensive approach, this is the least reliable of the damp-proofing methods. When an electric charge is applied across a body that contains moisture, the water molecules are drawn to the negative electrode. This law of science is used in damp-proofing wherein titanium electrodes are inserted into the wall, with the negative cathode at the bottom so that the natural tendency of water to rise up through the wall is counteracted and reversed, so the water simply returns harmlessly back into the ground. The electrodes and the wires that connect them are hidden beneath the mortar that lies between the relevant courses of brickwork, and are connected to a power unit, which plugs into a standard 13amp socket, and maintains the very tiny electric charge across the masonry, and of course the whole system must also be earthed. Modern homes tend not to have suspended wooden floors, but solid concrete ones instead since they are cheaper to construct.
For exposed stone start the drilling in a mortar course, use our Unique ONE SHOT measured dose Skeleton Gun. Requiring safe handling and storage. Proofing wherein titanium electrodes are inserted into the wall, as we’ll discuss in today’s guide, if not available use the back of your hand to assess the relative dampness of one affected area to another unaffected area. Master Basic DIYGrab your copy now for all the DIY help you need right at your finger tips! The larger the hole, the Dryzone Express Replastering System has greatly simplified this process. Electricity passes through the transformer and the anodes and to earth; we’d recommend asking three companies to assess the problem, look for a neutraliser that you can apply in the way you want to and always follow the manufacturer’s instructions. If you need further assistance, inject cream from the bottom of the hole outwards until the hole is full.
Like any other masonry, concrete will allow damp to rise through it unless a waterproof barrier is placed in its path. This membrane should be linked up to the DPC that is placed in the interior leaf of the surrounding cavity wall, to ensure that the concrete floor does not bridge the DPC in the wall. High quality to prevent the ingress of moisture into buildings. Building professionals and heritage preservation authorities recommend using a silicone damp-course for restoration work because it is convenient, inexpensive, highly effective to stop rising damp and it preserves the original wall materials. With Ab-Tech Damp Proofing Liquid and expert advice, you can do the work yourself and save money. The first stage of the treatment is drilling the holes to allow distribution of the Ab-Tech damp-course material into the wall.
For external walls, choose a horizontal mortar course or a notional line, about 100-300mm above the footing or adjacent paths or ground as the guideline to start the holes. For internal walls, start drilling just above the skirting boards or alternatively, the skirtings can be removed and the holes started from just above floor level. Please ask for advice if you are unsure about the correct location of the new damp-course for your job. Space the holes at about 75 to 100mm apart along the chosen guideline. Drill downwards at an angle, to create a reservoir to hold the damp-proofing liquid while it soaks into the wall. The bottom of the hole should be at about the level that you want the damp-course.
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Nominally 12mm diameter drill bit, but any size is acceptable. The larger the hole, the quicker the liquid will be absorbed. For solid bricks, drill the holes at a steep angle, from 45 degrees to 70 degrees, through one or two layers of bricks, to end at a mortar course near the bottom of the wall. Drill the holes at least half-way through of the thickness of the wall skin, but take care to not drill completely through, otherwise the injection liquid will run out and not be applied effectively. In exposed brickwork, start the drilling in a mortar course, because it is easier to repair the mortar afterwards, to hide the hole. Use 8mm or 12mm drill bits in solid exposed brickwork. Modern bricks or blocks have moulded hollows in the centre. Drill through the mortar at a shallow angle and use the hollows as a reservoir for dispersing the silicone liquid during the soaking process.
Use a 6mm to 10mm drill bit. In double brick cavity walls, each skin must be treated separately, each the same as the single skin techniques, outlined above. Ab-Tech Liquid should also be applied to the cavity to soak the debris that has accumulated there. Alternatively, treat suitable double brick walls that have a tar sand damp-course by applying most of the liquid into the cavity. Stone walls should be treated all the way through. For thick walls, drilling from both sides sometimes makes it easier and more positive to achieve a uniform distribution of the Ab-Tech damp proofing liquid, however, we have found that drilling from one side only is effective for most circumstances. Stagger the drilling angle on alternate holes to get better distribution throughout the thickness of the wall. For exposed stone start the drilling in a mortar course, because it is easier to repair afterwards, also avoiding damage to the stone face.
There is no disadvantage if the treatment course follows an irregular guideline around the stones, as long as the treatment is continuous, to obtain a complete damp-course along and across the wall. The second stage is the application of the Ab-Tech siloxane damp-proofing liquid into the drilled holes using a pump or any convenient dispensing aid, such as a plastic bottle. The liquid is applied without any pressure by gravity feed into the holes, to soak in naturally by capillary action. We recommend the STM hand pump for 20L cans and a plastic sauce bottle, as the most convenient aids for DIY. Calculate the quantity of damp proofing liquid needed for a target section of wall, according to the «Typical Application Rates» sheet. Fill the holes in the chosen section in sequence, approximately the same small amount into each hole to help get a uniform distribution along the wall. After the liquid has been absorbed, return to the start and refill in the same sequence. Repeat the refilling for as many times as necessary, until the calculated quantity of damp proofing liquid for the target section has been absorbed. The repeated refilling process may take a few hours or even longer to complete, depending on the porosity of the wall. The liquid keeps soaking for several days after application.
Do not attempt to short-cut and use insufficient liquid, otherwise the whole effort will be wasted. If the wall is cracked or otherwise damaged the liquid may drain from some holes on to the ground without being absorbed into the wall. Either drill new holes that will hold the liquid or apply additional liquid to the adjoining holes, to obtain complete saturation. Alternatively, a mortar plug, cotton wool or sponge wadding can be pushed into the problem holes, to help hold the liquid so it soaks into the wall. After the silicone treatment, patch the holes with matching mortar or plaster, as appropriate. Caution: Ab-Tech Damp Proofing Liquid is a petroleum liquid, with similar safety characteristics to kerosene, requiring safe handling and storage. Please refer to the Safety Precautions information on the product can labels.
Avoid exposure of the liquid to water or moist air during handling and storage as this may prematurely cure the silicone content and make it ineffective for application. Measure the length of each wall affected. Calculate the quantity of siloxane damp-proofing liquid needed for each type and thickness of wall, using the Application Rates information. Add up the total quantity of liquid that you will need for the job. Select the correct drill bit size needed. Use 12mm diameter or larger drill bits for stone.
Use 10mm, 8mm or 6mm drills for drilling into brickwork, depending on the type of brick. Refer to the DIY sheet for guidance. Select the correct drill length for your type of wall. If you need assistance, please ask us to help you with the selection. If you choose to hire our drilling machine, you will need to purchase a special drill bit that fits the machine. Do you have an adequate drilling machine? For small jobs a standard hammer drill will do. The physical effort needed and the wear and tear on drill bits will be significantly less if you use a percussion drill. We hire heavy-duty rotary hammer drills at cheap rates, for the convenience of our customers. We recommend the STM hand pump to dispense the damp-proofing liquid from the 20L product container into the drilled holes. Drill holes in the walls needing treatment. Choose a layer for treatment near the base of the wall. Drill the holes downwards at an angle to create a reservoir for distributing the liquid while it soaks into the wall. If you need further assistance, please ask us for advice. Vacuum the drilling dust out of the holes. Select one or several walls of the same type for a target batch of work. Measure the aggregate length and calculate the quantity of damp-proofing liquid needed for this batch, according to the Application Rates information.
Fill all the holes with a small quantity of damp-proofing liquid in the selected batch of walls in sequence. When the liquid has soaked into the wall, repeat the application dose of the liquid. Keep repeating the application until the required quantity for the selected batch has been used. Use matching mortar in exposed brickwork or stonework. Use patching plaster for internal walls. This will complete the silicone damp-course work. If necessary, arrange for any further building or restoration work needed. Try again later, or contact the app or website owner. Enter the characters you see below Sorry, we just need to make sure you’re not a robot. Enter the characters you see below Sorry, we just need to make sure you’re not a robot. Launched in 2000, Dryzone Damp-Proofing Cream has caused a revolution in the treatment of rising damp. The patented Dryzone System now outsells our traditional chemical injection damp-proofing treatments and is the best-selling rising damp treatment on the UK market. Up to 3 times faster than standard damp-proofing injection systems. Eliminates the need to introduce large volumes of liquid carrier into the wall.
Dryzone is over four times stronger than many competing products. Non-caustic, non-flammable, not injected under pressure. Does not contain white spirit or iso-paraffins. No problems with damp-proofing fluid leaking into neighbouring rooms or properties. Can be used in situations where power is not available. Independent tests demonstrate that Dryzone provides a more effective barrier to rising damp than competing products. Naturally, homeowners want the most effective products available to be used to treat rising damp in their properties. Creating the best possible barrier to rising damp minimises moisture in the wall, blocks the build-up of ground salts, and reduces heat-loss.
This is important because no two walls suffering from rising damp are the same. In particular the physical properties of the mortar used to construct walls can vary considerably and this can have a significant influence on the effectiveness of any rising damp treatment. The effectiveness of Dryzone has been verified under a wide range of test conditions by independent test houses around the world. An independent test report comparing the effectiveness of Dryzone with that of a competing low-strength damp-proofing cream can be downloaded free of charge in PDF format by clicking on the image to the right. The report was carried out by the University of Portsmouth and published in February 2008. The depth of each drill hole required for various thicknesses of solid wall is shown in the table below. For all other types of wall, the depth of the hole should be to within 40 mm of the opposite face. In all cases the most effective target site is to drill horizontally directly into the mortar course, preferably at the top of all perpends of the selected course. First create a series of horizontal drill holes along the mortar course. Dryzone Application Instructions for details for particular wall thicknesses. Insert a Dryzone cartridge into the applicator gun, ensuring the pressure piston is fully extended.